The
stages of making a shoe...
Would you like to
pleasantly surprise the shoe assistant dealing with you and know all the shoe
lingo when it comes to making your next purchase? We’ve come up with a simple steps process
for you to know the mechanisms and effort which goes into to hand-making a
shoe. You’ll also gain a clear
understanding of why a handmade shoe and why a designer shoe made by hand in a
factory is superior to a shoe from a factory in say China. More than 200 operations go into making a
shoe, so here’s all the technical details for you...
Stage one – The Idea...
Every
gorgeous shoe design starts with a creative idea for a new ‘shoe baby.’ Designers find inspiration from a variety of
sources. In fashion, designers are often
constantly travelling across the world for ideas and inspiration. The rich fabrics and colours of India might
influence the bright gold and red tones in one collection, the rose coloured
hues of Marrakesh the jewel of Morocco might influence Autumn-Winter
designs. Most designers carry around a
notebook with them at all times to quickly scribble down an idea for a new
design and you’ll often hear the stories of insomniac designers so passionate
about shoes they’ll be up in the early hours of the morning drawing a design
from their dreams or thinking of ideas in the shower. Looking for the best adornments and fabrics
to craft designs, a designer may pick up crystal roses in China, Chantilly lace
from France, leather from Italy and ribbon from Spain. High-end designers will source the best
quality materials and adornments for their shoes from across the globe. Some lucky people have the lovely ‘job’ of
travelling the world for inspiration and ‘shopping’ in stores across the globe
to research the designs of other designers for ideas for new collections.
Stage two – the
important ‘Last’ and materials...
A technical term every
shoe lover should know is ‘last,’ a three dimensional model of a shoe for the
fabric to be fitted around. Once a design
has been drawn and decided, fabric is cut much like you cut the outline of a
dress in dress-making into shapes to create the outer shell of the shoe, this
is called the ‘Upper.’ To get even more
technical, the side pieces are called ‘quarters,’ toes ‘vamps’ and the heels
‘counters.’ Usually a paper version will
be cut first to see if the design will work across the last. The department responsible for this function
is often known as the ‘clicking or cutting department.’ The level of skill needed to cut material
into shape is detailed work, materials are expensive and non needs to be
wasted. A machine called a skiving
machine is used to thin the edges of the material so it’s easier to sew
together. The shapes of the shoe are
sewn together and flattened out to give a smooth finish. Designer shoes are often made out of delicate
and fine materials, the satin’s will be the thickest cut satin’s, there may be
Swarovki element detail in the fabric or Chantilly lace. Craftsman with year’s worth of experience
will be creating designs and will elegantly handle the fabric to make sure the
design comes out perfect.
Stage 3 – Lasting and
making department...
The
next stage of the process is the last and cut-fabric coming together. The uppers are moulded and the shoes are put
through a heat setter and pressed around the hard mould of the last into the
shape of the foot using the last. The
insole is stitched to the bottom of the last, with designer shoes in most cases
the sole is made out of delicate soft leather.
The upper and all the surplus
material is trimmed off the seams and the heel is attached to complete the
stitching of the shoes. The soles are
stuck onto the last as a separate component and glued on to the upper via the
last. Once the shoes is finished if you
remove the last it make’s space for a foot.
Stage 4 – the testing
to perfection...
Designer
shoes will be made to perfection and the final part is called ‘finishing’ the
beautiful shoe. Depending on the type of
material, the leather will be buffed to perfection, satin cleaned delicately to
discourage markings from the marking and cutting in stage one. There may be some wax, polish or stain removal
involved to make sure the shoe is faultless.
All designers touch the inside of the shoe with a delicate sock of the
designers branding. In Aruna Seth’s case
she goes one step further to put in a sock of plush leather padding, a designer
shoe for long-lasting wear. The sole of
the shoe will be buffed and stamped with a embossing of the brand, in Prada’s
case they decorate the sole with a gold plagued Prada and in Louboutin’s case
as everyone knows, the trademark is red.
To give a designer shoe the extra piece of wow-factor, all designers
will care about the home of the new ‘shoe-babies.’ Shoes are special and they deserve good
living quarters so most designers invest heavily in the beds the shoes lie in
with, thick good quality hard-board creates the box, no expensive spared on
tissue and ribbon to treat every shoe as something to be treasured.
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